New York City: the Quest for a Quality Meal at 3am

I had my charge & the hunt was on: find a non-greasy, non-sketchy, semi-healthy, semi-respectable place to have breakfast. In Midtown Manhattan. At 3:30am. On a Sunday morning.

'Easy enough,' I thought. 'Most people who go out when they're in NYC don't even start heading home* & until at least 3am.'

I did what any intrepid 21st century travel blogger would do: I hit the Twitterverse. "Ok, Tweeps, give me all your recommendations for nonsketchy 24/7 eats in NYC."

Radio silence.

I Googled "non-sketchy 24 hour restaurant, New York City."

Nodda.

Hmmm.... I had not anticipated this being so difficult. This is the  city that never sleeps for goodness sake! I this was not to be found in New York, it was not to be found anywhere.

Finally, by varying my search terms (mostly removing the "non-sketchy" requirement), I landed on two possibilities, both within a 5 minute walk of the hotel.

I sent them to my husband & felt like I had done my duty. After all, it was his fault we had to get up so early anyway (110 mile bike race, start time: 5:30am). I asked him about it that night at dinner. What do you think? Could there be food found that you'd actually want to spend 7 hours on a bike after eating?

He voted for the Cosmic Diner, a typical NYC diner (with a surprisingly respectable website) in the Theater District. They offered a full menu, 24 hours a day. His second choice was the one I had been secretly rooting for (as if my vote counted, since I wouldn't be eating): Maision, a tres cute French bistro, also in Midtown.

We jotted down the addresses of both & do the casual walk by/sniff test.  We had a plan.

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We left for dinner a little early, determined to stake out our early morning meal while it was still light out. First up: the Cosmic Diner. Located on the corner of 52nd Street & 8th Avenue, I was surprised as I peered in the window. It was way nicer than anticipated - like not at all sketchy, full of normal (albeit touristy) patrons, eating normal looking food. The menu in the window was... normal (& normally New York priced!). Promising.

We walked around the corner to Maison. This was my kind of place: super cute patio packed full of happy New Yorkers enjoying an adult beverage in the beautiful early-May air. We glanced at the overnight menu (midnight to 6am) & I could tell the cyclist wasn't impressed.

Cosmic Diner won. His vote counted more than mine since I wasn't planning on eating & my only plans for the next day involved a bench & some Starbucks.

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Manhattan was surprisingly bustling as we silently, sleepily, trudged down 52nd Street at 3:30am. Groups of stylish young people laughed on street corners, fueled by alcohol & adrenaline. I wrapped my hand around the cool metal handle of the Cosmic Diner & yanked. As the door opened, a mixture of conversations blared out into the morning air. Holding up two fingers, the clean cut older waiter grabbed some menus & showed us to our booth.

Midtown, 3:30am
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The restaurant was pleasantly crowded for the early hour: a veil wearing bachelorette next to us, a booth full of hipsters across from us, a table of cheeseburger eating construction workers in the corner. Clearly, we were the only ones who were starting our day, rather then ending our evening.

Cosmic Diner, 4am
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The rest of the meal was a bit of a blur of friendly service, coffee, & limited conversation. I noshed on a toasted english muffin with strawberry jam & my husband ate more food than I could ever imagine eating at such an early hour (probably why I'm not good with the endurance sports): a four-egg omelet, turkey sausage, home fries, & toast.

carb loading
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As we walked back to the hotel, marveling at finding a non-greasy, non-sketchy, semi-healthy, semi-respectable place to have breakfast food so close to our hotel at such an early hour, we spotted another cyclist getting ready for the morning ride... jamming a banana into his mouth. My husband squeezed my hand & thanked me for the good sleuthing.



apparently the Cosmic Diner did the trick - here's the husband at the finish line, 7.5 hours later!
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(*I think the latest I've ever been out in New York is 1am & that's because we grabbed dinner after a show & then stood in Times Square & people watched**)

(**people watching at any hour of the day, but especially after midnight, is especially enjoyable in Times Square)

FriFotos: Waterfalls

Today's #FriFotos theme over on Twitter is waterfalls. I've seen plenty of beautiful waterfalls during my travels, although some of the best falls & best places to see falls are still on my "must do" list (Costa Rica, Hawaii, Iguazu Falls, Victoria Falls). Here is a collection of some of my favorite natural wonders around the globe: 

Chagrin Falls, a childhood favorite
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majestic Mother Fall, Dominica
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Guest Post: Chasing Some Warmth by Iain Mallory

I'm so pleased to feature today's guest post by writer, photographer & all around nice guy Iain Mallory. Follow his adventures on Twitter at @MalloryonTravel

Travel recommendations: Chasing Some Warmth

I am often asked where my favourite destination is. It is a result of being considered a traveller that everybody seems to want to know your recommendations.

The truth is however there is not one place that I have enjoyed more than any other. It is maybe a matter of attitude, but every destination has its attractions and plenty to offer.

Therefore instead of suggesting just one place to visit here are a few honourable mentions.

Oman – Beautiful country, lovely people

A recent return visit to this wonderful country reminded me just what a special place it is. Muscat is a bustling city with Oman’s most important souk at Muttrah, palaces, the Grand Mosque, a fantastic opera house and its own festival held each February.

Just a few kilometres away is the authentic village of Seeb, fishermen spend the afternoon repairing nets and preparing longlines along the beach. It has its own souk for a wander and it is unlikely that many other western tourists will be encountered during a visit.

From the coastal towns of Sur with traditional dhow boat building yards and lighthouses to towns with ancient forts like Nizwa offer the traveller varied experiences. Beautiful Salalah in the green Dhofar region and pretty semi-troglodyte villages such as Mitfah with its incredible falaj the variety is stunning.

Sunrise and sunset in the dunes of the Wahabi Sands with permanent Bedouin camps and camels should not be missed and can be contrasted by the steep sided cliffs and emerald pools of wadis like Wadi Shab.

These are all beautiful but it is the people themselves which are the greatest attraction, friendly and welcoming. Dressed in pure white dishdashas or colourful robes but seemingly always wearing a smile. It must be one of the friendliest Middle Eastern destinations.

Oman is the perfect winter destination as the temperature is bearable then, in the summer it rises to an uncomfortable 40° centigrade. If looking for a slightly unusual destination, Oman is worth considering.

the dunes at Wahabi Sands, Oman
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

forts and dhows in Muttrah, Muscat
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

young Omani girl at Muscat Festival
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

Meteora, Greece – Mountain City of Monks

Choosing a single destination from the many wonderful places Greece has to offer is not an easy task, but Meteora stands out from the crowd.

Set in the middle of the Thessaly Plain with incredible rock pillars on which monasteries are supported rising straight out of the base of the plain. Appearing like huge blades of rock, they are impressive enough in their own right, but add the monasteries balanced on them and they are breath-taking.

Most of these cities in the clouds are no longer inhabited but the few that are have museums, gift shops and of course ornate chapels. Photographs are not allowed here but there are ample opportunities for Kodak moments in and from the monasteries or pillars.

Building these monastic dwellings would be a challenge even now with modern machinery however when it is considered most are centuries old the problems encountered seem insurmountable. The fact they exist is testament to the skill and determination of the builders.

Meteora is a destination that I have wanted to visit since a child. Then fantastic images emerged from the pages of a magazine firing my imagination ever since. Arriving in person it did not disappoint and it can be recommended it to any traveller, adventurous or otherwise.

amazing Meteora
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

Marrakech – Souks in Sandals

Marrakech is admittedly a tourist trap; it is one of the most popular destinations in Morocco in fact the whole of North Africa. There is good reason for this, particularly for those travelling from Europe. It is very easy to travel to with plenty of flights but it also offers an opportunity to experience a culture alien to those of the west.

The medina is a labyrinth of small side streets bustling with traders selling handcrafted goods and tasty streetfood which is also excellent value. There are young men and women on scooters, donkey drawn carts transporting goods and of course tourists often temporarily lost whilst seeking souvenir in the shops and stalls.

The hub of the city is the world famous square, Djemaa el Fna which means ‘assembly of the dead’ for which there seems to be no explanation. There are islands of onlookers scattered around the square, each surrounding their own choice of entertainment, musicians, story tellers and even acrobats.

There are monkey wranglers, snake charmers and henna tattooists, children running or selling macaroon style cakes, traders of all kinds and yet more tourists.

In the evening it becomes even livelier as a tented village springs up selling a variety of foods from snail soup to sheep brains. The street sellers of the medina offering tajines to the artisans making handcrafted items for the souks may offer better value and are often tastier, but it is worth trying at least once.

The souks themselves line the square on three sides and are another of the main attractions of the city. They are organised into areas selling leatherwork, fine cloth, carpets and jewellery amongst other quality items. For those prepared to do a little bartering and keeping their wits about them some great bargains can be found.

It is possible to arrange an excursion into the desert or the popular coastal town of Essaouira from the city. This provides an escape for those struggling with the constant bustle of Marrakech.

Those seeking a beach will be disappointed not to find one amongst my recommendations; they are not amongst my favourite travel destinations. However if a little adventure and plenty of culture are your preferences these will suit your needs admirably. I hope you give them a try.

browsing the souks, Marrakech
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

performers in Marrakech
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

Djemaa el Fna at sunset
(C) Iain Mallory - All Rights Reserved

Iain is an ex-military man, and served as a Warrant Officer in the Army Physical Training Corps. This enabled him to become highly qualified in a large number of adventurous activities. Participating in many expeditions to many parts of the World which this satisfied his wanderlust.

He tried his hand at running a public house in leafy Cheshire, but it was not too long before his love of travel got the better of him and he once again set off to discover more of the World. 

 He now works freelance as a writer and photographer and enjoys finding adventure wherever he travels.

Wordless Wednesday: 787 Dreamliner

A few weeks ago, the brand new Boeing 787 Dreamliner made a stop in DC. Through some sweet talking to a TSA agent, I was able to sneak behind a curtain & catch a glimpse of this beautiful bird! What an amazing plane

Maine: Kayaking in Bar Harbor

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Our kayak trip with Aquaterra Adventures in Bar Harbor, Maine was the wild card of the three kayaking tours we went on during our trip. We were both nervous that it would be too touristy, too easy. As we ambled up to the dockside boathouse, which houses Aquaterra, an overpriced lobster restaurant, & a service which offers whale watching to a few hundred at a time, our nerves were not calmed. When we were greeted by a group of gum smacking teenagers at the front desk, we considered cancelling. We just didn't want to deal with a bunch of beginners slowing down our paddle. Pompous? Yes. But we were determined to make the last kayaking trip of our vacation the best.

When we met our quirky guide Jeff (kayak guide by summer, YMCA janitor by winter), we knew we'd be in good hands. When Jeff told us that we were the only ones who had signed up for our tour, so we paid for a group tour & ended up with a private one, things started exceeding exceptions. Little did we know it would only be he beginning of what we wanted: the best kayaking trip of our jaunt up the Maine coast.

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After practicing how to get out of a flipped over boat (the first time we'd ever actually been instructed how to do so), we slipped into our tandem kayak & headed out to sea. Fighting what a meteorologist would call "moderate chop," we paddled away, my husband doing the lion's share of the work. We paddled out toward the Porcupine Islands that dot the coast of Mt. Desert Island. As we approached the first island, our ears were perked by the sound of porpoise coming up to the surface for a breath. We became instantly still, but even with our paddles hovering over the surface of the water, we weren't able to catch of a glimpse.

Porcupine Islands
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Acadia National Park
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 We traveled around each of the islands, dodging the occasional piece of seaweed & the more than occasional speed boat. My biceps screamed as I continued to dip the tip of the paddle into the the crystal clean water, while forcing my brain to focus on admiring Cadillac Mountain & Acadia National Park. I forgot all about the pain when we turned a corner & spotted two bald eagles, sitting majestically at the top of a pine tree, their white heads popping against the bright blue sky.

bald eagles!
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As we approached a rockier island, Jeff told us about a rock formation called the "Bar Harbor Formation": sea floor that was pushed up by glaciers thousands of years ago. It is hard to wrap your head around the fact that you're looking at something that used to be on the floor of the ocean - 420 million years ago - & continues to push toward the sky at a painfully slow rate.

Bar Harbor formation
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After thoroughly exploring each island, paddling further than we had paid for, we started back to the dock. The headwind picked up & my muscles strained as we fought the current to make it back. The winds turned so strong that the next series of trips were cancelled, making us thankful that we had the skills necessary to not only go out, but go out & have a thrilling time.

All in all, Jeff took us on a 3.5. hour, 8 mile paddle. It will definitely go down in the record books as one of our best ever.

furthest paddle ever!
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I wasn't paid or perk'd by Aquaterra Adventures to write this - it was just honestly an unexpectedly awesome time! If you're planning a trip to Maine this summer, especially if you're new at paddling, give them a call.

Dominica: Emerald Pool & Trafalgar Falls

The jungley, green covered island of Dominica is our new favorite island & two highlights of our trip there were stops at the the Emerald Pool & Trafalgar Falls. These are places that most people who come to the island will visit &, unlike some completely lame "must see" stops, they're actually worth your time.

Our first stop of the two was the Emerald Pool. To get there, pay your admission fee (a ticket admits you to several natural sites) & hike along a muddy, rocky, uneven trail (highly recommend tennis shoes for this walk).

After scampering along the trail for about 30 minutes, the path opens up and the Emerald Pool suddenly appears below you. The sight is breathtaking & magnificent & "oh wow" (which is what I said about 80 million times). By the time we made our way down the uneven stairs, the group that was there was ascending & we had the place to ourselves (go early - like 8 or 9 am early - to beat the crowds).

first glimpse
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Our guide stayed back (either out of respect for our awestruck-ness or out of boredom having done this a bunch of times) as we scaled down the last few steps, kicked off our shoes, & stepped into the completely clear, ice cold, water. We flicked our toes, making ripples across the surface that spread out to meet the waterfall & experienced a moment of pure peace & bliss. At that moment, I felt so far away from the concrete jungle of Whole Foods, delayed rush hour trains, & job deadlines I had left behind just a few days before.

We debated swimming - we were wearing swimsuits under our clothes for just such the occasion - but ultimately decided not to, the chilly water temperature & lack of a towel winning out over the overwhelming desire to be even closer to nature.

We paused a bit longer, then slipped up the hill back to the car, our wet feet skidding against the rubber soles of our flip flops (again, dressed for swimming & kayaking, not jungle hiking).

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(C) Christina Saull - All Rights Reserved

(C) Christina Saull - All Rights Reserved

worth the hike
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Trafalgar Falls was the last site we visited. I was skeptical: things this touristy & easily accessible were rarely worth it.

My heart sank a little as we walked a well worn, well maintained path toward the roar of the falls. I like the feeling of adventure & this wasn't cutting it so far. As we approached the wood observation deck, I could see it packed with tourists.

We pushed our way through, brushing past the inpatients that grow wild in Dominican jungles, to get a better view. And what a view it was. The thin ribbon Father Fall tucked back to our left (falling 125'), the wide, forceful Mother Fall to our right (falling 75').

'Wow,' I thought. 'Must book a trip to Hawaii soon because this is really cool.'

 

Mother Fall
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Father Fall
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Off to the side we noticed a less worn/possibly illegal path continuing on down to the base of the falls. This path takes some skill to navigate; the route involves climbing over boulders, crossing streams, & scaling up muddy hills. My foot strained to grip each slippery rock through the sole of my inadequate shoe. Dripping with sweat, I hesitated & wanted to turn back a few times, but my more adventurous husband encouraged us to keep going. I'm so glad we did. We ended upvery close to the base of the Mother Fall (but never felt like we were in danger & weren't actually in the water).

Mother Fall up close
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(C) Christina Saull - All Rights Reserved

(C) Christina Saull - All Rights Reserved

(C) Christina Saull - All Rights Reserved

Our day in Dominica was kindly sponsored by the Dominican Tourism Bureau. But that didn't matter, we would have seen these sights anyway. Because they're awesome.

Wordless Wednesday: St. Kitts

sunrise over St. Kitts
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St. Kitts beach view
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St. Thomas, USVI: the Shopping & Beach Port (we did neither)

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One of the fun things about cruising is planning what you’re going to do in each port.

Except when you don’t.

Like we didn’t in St. Thomas.

This was our first visit to the Caribbean’s busiest cruise ship port & our plan consisted of getting off the boat & exploring.

Cruise ships dock next to a beautiful yacht marina, where our ship pulled in next to a $200,000,000 yacht . After strolling through the yacht village, we wandered the two miles into downtown Charlotte Amalie, following the sidewalk which ran along the edge of Long Bay.

the world's 8th largest yacht
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When we got into town, we realized everything we had been told was actually true: it really was just a town full of duty-free shopping. Convinced that there had to be something worthwhile to see, we (luckily) stumbled upon someone from the USVI Tourism Bureau, who pointed us in the direction of several historic homes & Blackbeard’s Castle.

We walked up the hill into the Inn at Blackbeard’s Castle, paid our $14 admission, & had the morning to explore. First up in the self-guided walking tour was the Amber Museum , a really interesting collection of amber pieces, included a piece millions of years old with a fossilized dinosaur footprint in it. Did you know that, because of the way amber is formed, amber pieces with insects frozen inside them (a la Jurassic Park) are actually fake?

90 million years old!
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Caribbean amber has a greenish tint
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Following the museum, we toured four historic sites: the Britannia House (filled with beautiful West Indian furniture, including many pieces from Barbados), the Pedersen Estate (the only urban archaeological dig in the entire Caribbean), Villa Notman (with its double balcony railings imported from New Orleans), & the Haagensen House (which offers amazing views of the cruise port).

Hotel 1829
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amazing views
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imported from NOLA
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archaeological site
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 Finally, we made it up to the site of Blackbeard’s Castle. The "castle," aka the St. Thomas Skytsborg Tower, was built in 1678 as a watchtower for the harbor. No one is really sure when Blackbeard the Pirate (aka Edward Teach – what a boring, non-intimidating name!) took it over, but they guess it was some time in the 1700s. He used the tower as a lookout for his evil-doings. The tower still stands, & affords amazing views of the entire town of Charlotte Amalie.

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After exploring the castle for a bit, we popped our head into the Rum Factor, where a small amount of rum is made on site. There is a rum sampling area, where they let you sample as much as you want (score!). We contemplated buying a bottle of the pineapple rum we liked, but ultimately decided we couldn’t cheat on Mt. Gay rum from Barbados.

Exploring the whole site took about two hours &, despite how it sounds, all this was decidedly NOT touristy or cheesy. Except the part where one of the historic homes is now a gift shop. That felt a bit Disney-esque.

We wandered back down the hill into the shopping mecca of downtown Charlotte Amalie. We wandered down Main Street, poking our heads into various shops. Eventually, though, we got sick of being heckled as we walked by the entrance to every store (“Free watch with purchase!” “Get a diamond for the lady!” “Pretty necklace for your beautiful wife!”) & started heading back toward the ship. After being caught in a momentary downpour (a common theme on this Caribbean adventure), we made our way back to Yacht Haven Grande  & decided to stop for a snack.

We pulled up a stool at Fat Turtle  (not at all related to the popular U.S. beach chain Fat Tuesday) & enjoyed a Carib beer & some fish cakes. While there, we watched two wild iguanas frock on the rocks – staring each other down, scampering around & eventually engaging in some momentary adult activities. Sadly, this was one of the highlights of our visit to St. Thomas – you just don’t see huge iguanas running around the streets of DC!

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St. Thomas was probably our least favorite port during the cruise, but that’s partially our fault. By not doing any research, we really didn’t know what to expect or do. On the other hand, it was kind of nice to just have a “wandering day” on an otherwise packed cruise itinerary.

If you go...

Had we planned better (or done any research what-so-ever), we would have known that in addition to the tower itself at Blackbeard’s Castle, there is also a swimming pool, snack bar, & lounge chairs. The price of admission includes access to all these amenities. The views from the pool are spectacular.


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 If you’re dying for a taste of home, there’s a Wendy’s restaurant at the end of the cruise ship pier. If you’re in need of some last minute items, there’s a Kmart & a Payless Shoes within walking distance of the pier.

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Taxi tours are popular on all Caribbean islands, especially in St. Thomas. If you’re interested in doing a tour, make sure & set a price with the driver ahead of time.

One of the most popular places for cruisers to head is to the world famous beach at Magens Bay . Consistently ranked as one of the top 10 beaches in the world, we chose to skip this often crowded spot. If you decide to go there during your day in port, skip the cruise line excursion there & just take a taxi – it’s about a 20 minute ride from the port.

If you cruise into St. Thomas, make sure & grab a spot in the aft of the ship for sail away. "Parking" is very tight at the dock - you'll definitely want a good vantage point to see your ship back out of its parraellel "parking spot."

FriFotos: paradise

For me, paradise is...

a baseball game on a sunny Sunday afternoon...

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the front seat of a kayak in Maine...

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watching the sun dip below the horizon in Barbados...

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